Lace is the most expensive and beautiful fabric in fashion. Its history begins in 15th century Italy and Flanders, when nuns wove fine patterns with a needle. Today lace is made both by hand (for couture) and on high-tech Karl Mayer and Jakob Müller looms that replicate the finest hand-made details. This guide covers 8 key types of lace: classic (Chantilly, Alençon, Valenciennes, guipure, macramé) and modern (3D lace, glitter lace, sustainability lace).
What is lace
Lace is a textile with a complex pattern produced by braiding, knotting or embroidering on a netted ground. Two main families: 1) needle lace — Chantilly, Alençon, Valenciennes, 2) bobbin lace — guipure, macramé. Modern types — machine 3D, glitter lace, lace from recycled plastic.
5 classic types of lace
1. Chantilly
The most beautiful and delicate lace. Born in 17th century France, in the city of Chantilly. Fine, sheer, with floral motifs and a scalloped edge. Made on a tulle ground. Price — USD 22–55/m (machine), from USD 130/m (hand-made). Famous for nearly every royal wedding gown of the 20th–21st centuries.
2. Alençon
Classic needle lace from the Norman city of Alençon, France. A 3D texture comes from the cordonnet thread outlining each motif. Listed by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. Machine — USD 40–95/m, hand-made — USD 215+/m. Couture.
3. Valenciennes
Belgian bobbin lace from the city of Valenciennes. Very fine, with floral and geometric motifs and no cordonnet thread. Sheer, light, perfect for lingerie and nightwear. Price — USD 16–40/m.
4. Guipure
Dense, sculptural lace without a net foundation. Motifs joined by "brides" — fine bridges. Does not stretch, holds its shape, ideal for bodices. Price — USD 9–40/m. The most popular lace for bridal gowns.
5. Macramé
A knotting technique, with no needle or bobbins. Very sculptural, rustic, perfect for boho. Originates from the 9th century Arab world. Price — USD 14–32/m. The 2026 trend in boho weddings.
6. 3D lace
A modern trend: flowers, leaves, butterflies project 5–15 mm in 3D. Made on dedicated machines with appliquéd 3D petals. Price — USD 40–105/m. Vogue-named trend for 2026.
7. Glitter lace
Classic lace woven with metallic or glitter threads. Creates a "shimmer" effect. Price — USD 16–48/m. The trend for evening and party gowns.
8. Sustainability lace
Lace from recycled plastic (Recycled REPREVE — from PET bottles) or organic cotton. Ethical + unique. Price — 30–40% above classic. The 2026 trend.
Needle lace vs bobbin lace
| Parameter | Needle lace | Bobbin lace |
|---|---|---|
| Tool | Needle and thread | Bobbins (wooden sticks) |
| Speed | Very slow | Slow |
| Difficulty | Most complex | Complex |
| Texture | 3D | Flat |
| Examples | Chantilly, Alençon | Valenciennes, guipure, macramé |
| Hand-made price | USD 130–400/m | USD 55–215/m |
Properties of different lace types
| Type | 3D effect | Sheerness | Stiffness | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chantilly | Low | High | Low | Couture, veil |
| Alençon | Medium | Medium | Medium | Bridal, trim |
| Valenciennes | Low | High | Low | Lingerie, nightwear |
| Guipure | High | Partial | High | Bodice, decor |
| Macramé | Very high | Low | High | Boho, interior decor |
| 3D lace | Highest | Partial | High | Premium gowns |
| Glitter | Medium | Medium | Medium | Evening, party |
| Sustainability | Varies | Varies | Varies | Eco-gowns |
How to choose lace for your dress
- Classic bridal gown — Chantilly, Alençon, guipure
- Boho wedding — macramé, sustainability
- Evening gown — glitter lace, 3D
- Wedding guest dress — Valenciennes, schiffli guipure
- Lingerie / robe — Valenciennes, fine Chantilly
- Interior decor — macramé, guipure trim
Inter Tex tip: if you are choosing lace for the first time, order a swatch set (5–6 types) — free at Inter Tex. Lace looks different in photos vs in your hand. Hand-feel is the key factor.
How to sew with lace
- Fine needles 70/80 — thicker ones leave holes.
- Lay out by motif — large flowers on visible areas.
- Always line — satin, silk or chiffon in matching tone.
- Do not overlock the scalloped edge — it is a finished feature.
- Sew with a small stitch on machine, or by hand for invisible seams.
- Iron through a press cloth — synthetic lace melts.
Looking for lace for a project?
Inter Tex catalogue: 8+ types of lace in many colours. Width 130–150 cm. Wholesale from 5 m. Free 5×5 and 10×10 cm swatches.
How to wash and care for lace
Wash: hand wash in cool water with a delicate detergent, or machine wash in a mesh bag at 30 °C, no spin. Dry: flat on a towel, in shade. Iron: from the back, through a press cloth on the synthetic setting. Storage: in a garment bag, never in plastic.
Mistake: washing lace together with a zipper or other rough items. The delicate structure tears easily. Always — in a mesh bag and separately.
Lace pricing in 2026
| Type of lace | Price USD/m | Segment |
|---|---|---|
| Tulle base | 1.6–5.4 | Budget |
| Schiffli (machine embroidery) | 9–16 | Budget |
| Guipure | 9–40 | Budget — premium |
| Macramé | 14–32 | Mid |
| Valenciennes | 16–40 | Mid |
| Glitter lace | 16–48 | Mid+ |
| Chantilly (machine) | 22–55 | Premium |
| 3D lace | 40–105 | Premium |
| Alençon (machine) | 40–95 | Premium |
| Hand-made (Chantilly, Alençon) | 130–400+ | Couture |
Inter Tex carries a full range of laces: guipure, 3D, Chantilly, macramé, glitter, lace appliqués. Wholesale from 5 m — 15–20% discount. Free 5×5 and 10×10 cm swatches. Shipping across Ukraine and the EU.
